Mycotoxins are toxic substances that certain molds naturally produce when they grow on crops like hay, grains, or silage. They form most often in warm, humid, or poorly stored conditions and can contaminate feed without showing obvious signs of mold. Even in small amounts, mycotoxins can cause health problems in animals—affecting digestion, growth, and immune function—making it crucial to store and handle hay properly to prevent mold growth and toxin buildup.
(Hay field with a classic raker.)
Most mycotoxin problems in hay start with moisture. Hay that is baled before it has dried down, hay that gets rained on in the windrow, and bales that pick up water from a leaking roof or bare ground all give mold a place to grow. Once mold is active, some species can produce toxins, and those toxins stay in the forage even after the mold itself dries out or is hard to see.
Heat is the other warning sign. Bales that were put up too wet can warm up in the stack as microbes go to work. A bale that feels warm to the touch, smells sour or musty, or shows white, gray, or black dust when you break a flake is telling you something went wrong during curing or storage.
Grass hays can also carry toxins that start in the field, such as ergot, which shows up as dark, hard bodies in the seed heads of some grasses. Good field management and harvesting at the right stage help keep these out of the bale.
Horses are especially sensitive to moldy feed, and their digestive system gives them little room for error. Cattle, goats, sheep, and camelids handle some toxins differently, but none of them do well on contaminated forage over time. Depending on the toxin and how much an animal eats, problems can include:
Many of these signs can have other causes, so if an animal seems off, call your veterinarian and mention any recent change in hay.
You cannot see mycotoxins, but you can catch the conditions that cause them. Before you feed from a new load, open a few bales from different parts of the stack and check:
If you are unsure about a load, especially for a pregnant mare, a senior horse, or a horse with a health condition, a forage lab can tell you for certain. Many forage testing labs offer mycotoxin screening alongside standard nutrient analysis. Use a hay probe to take core samples from 15 to 20 bales across the stack, combine them in a sealed bag, and send them in as one sample. Ask your veterinarian or extension office which panel makes sense for the animals you feed.
A standard nutrient test (protein, fiber, and relative feed value) does not check for mycotoxins, so ask for the mycotoxin screen specifically if that is your concern.
The best protection is buying well-cured hay and keeping it dry. At home, that means:
Our guide on preparing your barn for hay season walks through storage step by step.
When in doubt, throw it out. Hay that is visibly moldy, smells musty, feels warm, or comes apart in dusty clumps is not worth the risk, especially for horses. Do not try to stretch it by mixing it with good hay. Pull damaged bales out of the stack, and check the bales around them, since moisture problems rarely stay in one spot.
At Ohana Farms in Pasco, Eastern Washington’s dry summers help our alfalfa, timothy, and orchard grass cure properly before baling, and we store it under cover until it reaches your barn. See what’s in The Hay Barn, or contact us with questions about a load or how to store it.